Lone Peak via Big Willow

We met at Hidden Valley Park in time to leave at 6 AM. I expected to be the first one there since I live the closest, but Travis (a regular climbing partner) beat me! For the first time! Apparently that was his goal. I wasn't even mad. So I hung around with him in the parking lot for 20 minutes or so waiting for everyone to show up (they weren't late, I was early) and eating a delicious poppy seed muffin (which I accidentally left on the spare tire of my Jeep when I started down the trail). Once everyone got there, we headed off right on time. The final headcount was 8, but a 9th person we were not expecting showed up. He was a well known SPer (Brian Dunsum) and had been out many times with the more experienced members, but it was my first time meeting him.

Down the familiar trail we went. I had been up the bottom portion of this trail countless times. I knew the area well, but Grizz led off, and I focused on keeping my pace. It was slightly quicker than I was used to. I was grateful for the time a few weeks back I had gone up the first portion to the top of the log flume. That time I went at a quick pace without stopping. This time we went at a quick pace, and stopped even later. These guys were intense. But I was feeling good today! We traversed the ridge of Little Willow, and cut back into Big Willow. Now that we were on the north facing slope there was plenty of snow left, and it was time to don the snowshoes. In the lower reaches of the canyon we were traversing steep snow slopes, moving our way through the pine forest. In case you've never done it, let me tell you: walking across a steep slope with snowshoes is not easy. With every step your ankle bends and fatigues. I was fighting through, but getting a little frustrated. Dmitry then suggested that we drop more towards the meadow. Great idea! If Dmitry could hear them, my ankles would have thanked him a thousand times.

At this point it was just working up the steep canyon toward the cirque at the top. The sun was bringing more and more light into the sky. In the valley, the shadow of the mountains was racing towards us, bringing morning to more and more of the homes below. I wanted to stop and eat something, but thought it best to get over the next steep section. Then I felt it necessary to get over the next steep section. It went on like this for a while, until I finally decided to down some GU. Believe it or not, this is some good stuff. About a half minute later I caught up with the main group ahead of me, putting on sunscreen. I don't particularly like doing this, but I didn't get a sunburn, so it was worth it. Grizz promised a break in the cirque on a sunny rock before climbing the headwall so I didn't worry about eating anything else. We would be to the cirque in 20 minutes or so.

When we got there, the sunny rocks Grizz promised were all covered in snow. Oh well. The work horses didn't stand around long before forging a trail up the steep headwall of the Big Willow Cirque. I stayed back a minute with Matthew Van Horn to down some food and take some pictures. Travis (tatwood), Matt (Marauders), and Brian (dunsum) had fallen back a while ago, so we were keeping a watch out for them as well. Brian hadn't brought snowshoes so we assumed he turned around long ago. We would later learn that he made it as far as the base of the headwall before turning around. Not too shabby.

Climbing a steep snow slope is very taxing physically, but mostly mental. Mostly keeping my mind from going soft on me. I was fully aware of my bodies capabilities, and remained in focus for the climb. Taking things step by step, aware of everything. If I lost my balance, I would go for a long slide back down into the cirque. There were no real dangers to this, but would I have the will to climb back up? I didn't want to find out, so I focused all the more. The climb itself was shorter than some others I had done, but a lot of elevation had been gained. I had lost sight of the group in front of me by the time I reached the top, but I followed their tracks for less than a minute before I found them. Grizz was sitting on a sunny rock eating lunch. I guess he had meant we would eat AFTER climbing the headwall. Hehe....

I sat on my waterproof jacket and threw on my fleece. It was a bit colder up here than I had expected. I don't know why I thought that though. We were in a small bowl, mostly protected from the wind though, so we were fine. It wasn't lone before Joe and Mike took off toward the summit, but we were fine sitting a while longer. It was only a few minutes before we got stoked for the summit and started up the last ridge.

We only had 600 more feet of elevation to go, and a traverse over the snow covered boulders of the ridge. We all went at our own pace, stopping every now and then to do our own things. The wind was biting, so I stopped to throw on both of my jackets. I couldn't feel my fingers any more, and wished I had brought my thicker gloves to throw on over these ones. No worries though. Warming my core and moving would be plenty. I reached the top of the ridge, and all that was left was the scramble. We all took off our snowshoes to make this final traverse. By the time I was ready to go, Joe and Mike were already on top with Grizz and Dmitry close behind. I was glad they went first. I had no desire to negotiate this ridge, but felt fine following in the footsteps of others.

This was a little different than climbing the headwall an hour earlier. Balance was of the utmost importance. The ridge was knife edge, and an un-arrested fall would almost certainly mean death. Left foot, right foot, ice axe. Oh how I love my trusty ice axe. With my feet solid I would plant my axe firmly in the compacted snow of the ridge. Then I would use it as an anchor as I move my feet further toward my goal. Then I would plant my axe once again. A very focused, almost meditative process. At one point there was a traverse across a 60 degree snow slope under what was known as the "Big Bad Rock". So much air below my feet, and Bells Canyon 1400 feet below. I loved it! It didn't take long to make my final scramble up to the summit. Woo Hoo! Dmitry was there ready to take a victory photo of me.

Matthew Van Horn was a minute or two behind me. Brent had opted not to make the final scramble (which we all respected) and had started back down. Dmitry had left, and five of us shared the summit and enjoyed the views. I am sure there were congratulations given to Grizz for making number 100.


Everyone but myself and Matt left and we lingered a bit longer, enjoying the great views to be had. I was straddling the snow that you see me standing on above. Here were the views below my feet:


I loved these kinds of situations, being high above the valley below, enjoying a little bit of escape from everything it represented.

I will sometimes call people I know from summits (either to update them, inspire them, or brag to them), but taking my pack off and bringing it around to the front of me was something that I was not comfortable doing in this semi-precarious position. It is a great pack that becomes like a part of me when I wear it. It hugs my body close and keeps me very balanced. It was once Spencer's, which gives me a myriad of thoughts and feelings when I use it. Overwhelmingly, it is of comfort and encouragement.

I looked back to see the progress of the others, because I would soon need to leave my perch, high above the world and follow.

Feeling no desire to go around Matt, who was sitting between me and the way down, I let him go first. I was glad I did because he got a great shot of me coming back around the Big Bad Rock.


In case seeing that picture makes you think I'm absolutely insane, here's a bit of evidence that.. I could be worse. That photo is taken looking down from very near my position. How crazy!

Once through the serious portions of the ridge, we put the snowshoes back on and threw the axes back on our packs. Grizz teased me a bit for packing my helmet the whole way and not wearing it. There was really no need to though. Coming down the ridge, we ran in to Matt Jesperson working his way up. Keep at it man, you're almost there! We stopped again at our last lunch spot and got ready for the descent. I was excited to glissade down the headwall ("glissade" is a glorified way of saying "sliding down on my butt"). I took my snowshoes back off and got my axe out to act as a brake. Those below me had made a nice bobsled run, so I was good to go! Then I saw Travis working his way up the headwall! Got to give him credit for persistence. I stopped halfway down my glissade and chatted with him for a bit. When I started going again, my phone rang. This is when music ringtones are useful. I got some great glissading music playing in my pack a foot behind my head! Thanks Jarom! Nothing quite like sliding down a snowy hill, bobbing your head to "Where It's At" by Beck. The only downside was that my pant legs were up to my knees, and a huge pile of snow was piled between my legs. No matter though. The sun was out and it was a beautiful day! I called Jarom back to see what he wanted, and then ran down the remainder of the headwall (which wasn't steep enough to slide down). I emptied the snow out from my boots and gaiters and put my snowshoes back on.

The way down was mostly uneventful. Dmitry flew down ahead, and Mike waited behind for Brent who was still descending the headwall. So I spent most of the descent with Grizz, Joe, and Matt Van Horn. A lot easier than coming, up, but my legs were wearing out, my ankles fatiguing from the rotation forced upon them by the snowshoes, and my feet were getting beaten up as well. I was eager to get down. I took off the snowshoes as soon as I could. I reached dirt and had one last coversation with those around me before mostly running down the remainder of the trail. When I got to the parking lot, Dmitry was just driving off. Such an enjoyable day!

Matt Jesperson did make the summit and was coming down at the same time Travis reached the top of the headwall. Travis opted to descend with Matt rather than summit. Overall, it was a great day, all were safe, and most people on the trip summited. Can't wait for next week!

Trip statistics:
11 Miles (RT)
Trailhead elevation: 5,100 feet
Summit Elevation: 11,253 feet
Elevation gain: 6,153 feet
Personal Timeframe: 6:00 AM - Leave Trailhead
11:46 AM - Summit
2:50 PM - Return to Car
Total Time: 8 hours, 50 minutes