This was a great day. And bad at the same time, but mostly great. First off, when I was heading over to Jason's house to meet up with Spence and Steph, I thought two things in my head. First I said that I would walk the slackline. Second I said I would redpoint. Well, when I got there, spence wasn't there, so I got started slacklining. I went on for about 15 minutes, and spence arrived while I was mid run. Something about his presence secured me, and I finished the line without talking to him. Freak yeah, I was so stoked. But it was only the beginning.
What is it with me, the Salt Slips, and Leading? Oh well. We arrived at the slips and I relised I left my (hiking) shoes in my car at Jason's house. I had to make the short approach in flip flop sandels. Not that big a deal. Then we reached the tyrolian. It was a lot more sketch than I remember it.
Obviously it was residue from last year. No one had gone up to replace it. We went across anyways, as the river was too high to cross, and sure enough it was able to hold us. Then we started climbing. Spence led up Entra Nous and lowered off. Then I went for it. Spence asked if I wanted to Lead or toprope. I said if it weren't for the grade (5.9-) I would definately lead. He said "Oh, you can do this easy". again, something about Spence's faith assured me and I went on the sharp end. Preplaced draws though. When I was getting ready to go, I was picking up a few pieces of gear to rack on me, and Spence said I didn't need anything. Famous last words before an Epic. Fortunately this was a very small epic. Climbing went smoothly untill I reached the slabby crux. At this point steph was like "fall, fall" Because we had planned on doing lead takes. I said "No way! I want to redpoint!" and continued climbing. then came the epic. Above the crux I clipped one last bolt and climbed on, untill thinking to myself "this is preety run out, There should be a bolt here". Sure enough, right in front of my face, a bolt with no draw. I hadn't a single spare biner on me. So I yell down to spence "you skipped a bolt!". He was like "I did? Oh well, that part is easy." He was right. But still I ran that sucker out, so I think the preplaced draws shouldn't detract from anything. Anywho, things went smoothly from there. I clipped the next draw and hit the anchors with haste (it's about 5.4 at the top, if even that) and lowered off. Then steph went up and I wandered. then later we all did lead takes. Kinda freaky. But not that bad. Of course I chose the spot right at the crux to fall at, so I climbed the crux at least 6 times that day. Then I was the last, so I finished it off, cleaned the anchors and rapped down.
This is where it turns sad. Bear in mind, I throw my keys, wallet and phone in my pack when climbing. After packing up, I took out my keys, but was too lazy to get out my other two items, So they lay at the bottom of my pack. Then came the tyrolian. The way the tyrolian is set up, the road side of the line is higher than the crag side. I went for it first (shoulda had spence go first and this would have been avoided.) and about 5 feet away from the end, decided I couldn't do it. Fatigue mostly, my biceps were giving out on me (6 times through the crux and bouldering around). So I take off my pack to throw it to shore, relieving enough weight so that I could get up the tyrolian. Immediately, I heard "NO! DONT DO IT! YOU WONT MAKE IT!" from the other shore. They were right. My arms were too fatiged to throw it to shore. And too fatigued to get it back on my back. I was near doomed. I had to try. I hit shore, but it rolled down into the river, luckily wedgeing between a few rocks, though precariously. I still couldn't make it, too worn out. So I retreated to the north shore again. Spence went and saved my pack from going down the river, then steph went and by that time, I was rested enough that I would do it. But when I was standing on the north shore watching my pack bob around in that river, I realised "CRAP! MY PHONE!" Sure enough, it didn't make it. Now I have a new one. Got it for free under warrenty, and in early June I'll buy a cooler one. But as for now I'm fine with it, and overall, it was a good trip.